![]() The duct is a “false back,” a wall of plywood enclosing a 2-inch space. Ultimately, I opted for a top heating compartment with a duct to direct the warmed air down the back of the cabinet and vent it into the bottom. First, I considered putting the heating compartment in the bottom, but common sense ruled that out because hatching waste and dander would pile up in the bottom, creating an impossible-to-clean fire hazard. I thought about ways to overcome this as I planned out the cabinet design. A big problem with operating an incubator in a cold room is the gradient from top to bottom because hot air rises, the bottom of the incubator is often several degrees colder than the top. The unit needed to be well-insulated to buffer it from big temperature swings while sitting in a cold garage, so I built a cabinet that’s a box within a box and that has fiberglass insulation. Here’s how I put together my DIY incubator (see my DIY Incubator Materials List for a rundown of the supplies I used). The self-turning mechanism isn’t used routinely, but it still works, and in case of an emergency, I can use the cabinet as an incubator once again. As a hatcher, this unit can keep up to 150 hatchlings healthy and happy. These days, I transfer eggs from one of several incubators to this unit three days before the eggs hatch. ![]() Also, it’s nearly impossible to maintain ideal, steady humidity and temperature conditions for both hatching and incubating within a single unit. ![]() It didn’t take long for me to abandon that idea after realizing that hatching is a messy process and that clean, quietly incubating eggs shouldn’t have to deal with commotion and dander fallout. Originally, I wanted a multi-stage incubator that would do it all: incubate on automatically turned racks and hatch on a stationary bottom shelf.
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